Spa Chemical Maintenance
A home spa or hot tub is basically a large multi-user bathtub with reusable water. All of the dirt, oil, makeup, and germs from all of your bathers will stay in your tub between uses unless properly maintained. This is why the water must be treated with chemicals to:
- bring the water to a safe bathing state
- maintain this safe stasis
- keep your spa clean and clear
- prolong the life of your hot tub
- prevent any dangerous buildup of bacteria
1) Test the water in your hot tub
The pH, Alkalinity and Calcium levels need to be maintained for balanced water, otherwise various issues can arise including decreasing sanitizer effectiveness. Testing is the first step to attaining balanced water.
- Turn the circulation pump on for a few minutes to mix up the water and ensure you don't take a non-representative sample.
- Obtain a sample of water toward the middle of your hot tub, about 1 ft under the water surface.
- Insert test strip or liquid test reagent as directed on the packaging.
- Compare color to test strip packaging or the liquid test beaker legend.
- If the color does not match the ideal range, proceed to step 2.
- To see how Sensa can assist with this process, visit our The Sensa System article.
2) Balance the water in your hot tub
Spa water must be balanced prior to adding sanitizer or shock to ensure those chemicals will work effectively. Alkalinity, calcium hardness and pH (in that order) are the core parameters for balanced water and must be adjusted before adding any sanitizers. See our article on Balancing Spa Water for more information on the importance of achieving properly balanced water. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations based on the volume of your hot tub. They all require the following process:
- Turn the circulation pump on.
- Add recommended amounts of pH/alkalinity/calcium increaser or decreaser to the spa water.
- Allow to circulate for at least 30 minutes before adding additional chemicals.
- Retest the water.
- Repeat as necessary.
3) Add Sanitizer
Once your spa water is balanced, it is technically safe to use, but as with all standing water, it quickly becomes a breeding ground for dangerous bacteria, fungi, and algae. When used properly, your sanitizer will help protect you against threatening pathogens. There are various spa sanitizer options but Chlorine and Bromine are the most common. Check our Spa Sanitizer Options page for a detailed comparison of these two options.
Due to varying concentration levels of either your Bromine or Chlorine and the range in volume levels of hot tubs, it is imperative to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
To see how Sensa can automate this process, visit our The Sensa System article.
4) Shock your hot tub
“Shocking” your hot tub implies the addition of a high concentration of oxidizer to the water. This process can be done with either a Chlorine (typically Dichlor Chlorine) or non chlorine (Potassium Monopersulfate/MPS) solution and should be administered once a week or more depending on your usage.
Shock is designed to eliminate
- Bad odors
- Cloudy water
- Foam
- Chloramines or Bromamines
- Body oils
- Sweat
- Other contaminants
The process of shocking your system will dissolve anything that is missed by your daily sanitizer. Shock is essential for both Chlorine and Bromine hot tubs and may be required to achieve a baseline balanced water for alternative sanitizing options.
To administer shock, follow these instructions:
- Check that the circulation pump is on and the jets are off.
- Put on gloves and goggles for safety (long sleeved shirt, pants, a facemask and closed shoes recommended).
- If your hot tub is indoors, provide good ventilation.
- Measure your shock according to manufacturer’s specifications and the volume of your tub.
- Introduce shock to the water in your hot tub slowly (avoid inhaling powder).
- Allow your hot tub to remain circulating uncovered for at least 20 min.
5) Purge before emptying
One of the most important aspects of proper spa maintenance is the process of purging and cleaning before adding the new water. If you want to start with fresh, clean water then it's imperative to remove as much of nasty stuff left behind as possible. There are various detergents on the market that help to clear out remaining scum from the internals (jets, lines, etc) where bacteria and other contaminants can build up.
6) Additional chemicals to be used as needed
The following chemicals are not necessary in every case and can be used as needed. If you are unsure if you need these or not, you can take a sample of your water to a local hot tub store and have it tested to determine what additional chemicals are required.- Stain and scale control helps isolate and remove various hard metals (copper, iron, manganese, and others) and calcium buildup that can otherwise lead to staining and corrosion.
- Clarifying treatments latch onto smaller particles and create larger particles that can be caught by the filter.
- Foam treatments reduce foam almost instantaneously. If the water is clean and balanced, this should rarely (if ever) be necessary but can be used in a pinch.
- Enzymes help break down organic contaminants like body oils, cosmetics, lotions and hair products.
- Phosphate reducers can be necessary if your water has high levels of phosphates. These phosphates can come from rain water, insects, soil or even your tap and act as a fertilizer for algae. If your water is green it could be due to high phosphate levels.
- Filter cleaner is, you guessed it, a chemical that helps clean your filter. There are sprays that you can use for a quick clean and others that allow you to soak in a bucket for a deeper clean.
Tips
- Run the circulation pump before testing. This helps mix all of the water together so there are no areas that would provide an inconsistent measurement.
- After administering chemicals, run the circulation pump and wait for at least 30 minutes before testing the water again.
- It may take up to 24 hours for the water to fully adjust.
Enjoy your spa!
